The Cellars: The Inner Sanctum

The cellar is where specialists see to the various stages of the curing process according to the specific needs of each type of cheese (temperature, hygrometry, washing, turning, ventilation). The cellar is where a properly cured cheese naturally acquires its creamy texture, its rind, and its aroma.

Cellars are divided into different areas where the hygrometry and temperature are optimized for the cheeses being cured, which in general terms refers to the process of drying. Each family of cheeses requires a specific balance between these two determining factors. For example, a soft ripened bloomy white rind cheese requires a hygrometry of 90% and a temperature of 12°C, while a soft ripened washed-rind cheese needs a hygrometry of 95% and a temperature of 10°C. While these differences may seem insignificant, they are in fact of the first importance. The higher the temperature is, the faster the curing will be.

After spending a certain amount of time in the hâloir, the cheeses are then placed on shelves made of narrow wood strips (clayettes) in ventilated areas, where they will be washed and turned. The affineur relies on his or her practices eye to sort them, and experienced hands can judge the stages of the drying process and tell what is happening inside the cheese. The sense of smell comes into play only if there is doubt as to quality, or in the case of cooked-curd cheeses when the cellarmaster performs a taste test to check the elasticity and texture.

At the end of the curing process, a good cellar should be able to wide range of products, each at the peak of ripeness and flavor, to meet the diversity of customers' tastes and make up the most magnificent cheese platters possible.